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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a simple salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place earning such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.